Rajat Narang

Posts Tagged ‘Cosmetics

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Today the world is definitely inclined towards Natural & Organic Cosmetics & Beauty products. We want to consume all the superfoods to get the maximum benefits.

If we see around us, many of the spices and herbs we use in our daily baking and cooking are already superfoods.

We always knew the benefits of spices and herbs in our food and food supplements for good health, but we have been hesitant to add them to our beauty products.

All the spices and herbs we consume today have been integral part of age old Ayurveda known worlwide.

Ayurveda, a Sanskrit term as defined by @DeepakChopra

”Thousands of years before modern medicine provided scientific evidence for the mind-body connection, the sages of India developed Ayurveda, which continues to be one of the world’s most sophisticated and powerful mind-body health systems. More than a mere system of treating illness, Ayurveda is a science of life (Ayur = life, Veda = science or knowledge). It offers a body of wisdom designed to help people stay vibrant and healthy while realizing their full human potential.” [By: Deepak Chopra, M.D.]

With the current & uprising market trends, Ayurveda ingredients, if consumed in the right way in our natural cosmetics could be very beneficial. We could utilise all the treasure it holds for the regeneration and nourishment of our skin.

It would be interesting to overview these spices and herbs as active ingredients in our beauty products.

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Arjuna Herb [Arjuna, Terminalia Arjuna]

It has large variety of bioactives and is used to counteract the signs of ageing. Arjuna herb has been known to help prevent acne too. It promotes skin  elasticity and help improve dermal density. It helps restore skin barrier performance to protect against environmental stresses and pollutants.

 

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Haldi [Turmeric, Curcuma Longa]

The active ingredient in Turmeric is Curcuminoids. Turmeric with its brilliant yellow color due to Curcumin has been used as a spice and as a cosmetic ingredient. The constituents of Haldi/ Turmeric rhizomes have antiinflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial, soothing, and protective properties essential for anti-ageing skin care products. It promotes skin health and promotes purifying of skin. It is widely used widely in face and body treatments for glowing & radiant skin.

 

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Saffron [Kesar, Crocus sativus]

Saffron is world’s most expensive spice. As mentioned in historic texts, Saffron has been used for centuries. Saffron is well known for its fortifying and anti-ageing properties. It helps reduce dark circles below eyes and  provides protection against UV rays from sun. Saffron is rich in minerals and vitamins icluding Vitamin A, Vitamin B2 [Riboflavin], Vitamin B3 [Niacin], Vitamin C, Folic Acid, Calcium, Magnesium, Manganese, Phosphorus, Selenium, Zinc and Carotenoids, all active constituents to deliver positive health benefits to skin and hair. It is also used in hair mask for coloured hair.

 

Ayurveda ingredients when blended into our daily cosmetics could be of immense value to us for our skin and hair health.

It truly provides us Beauty not only from inside, but also from outside.

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In September 2016, European Commission confirmed that Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic [CMR] substances are not automatically banned for their use in cosmetic products, if they have a mandatory classification as under the CLP Regulation.

The announcement stated Category 1 & 2 CMR substances are prohibited for use in cosmetics with exemptions. Category 2 CMRs could be used if deemed safe by SCCS. Category 1 CMRs could be used too if SCCS considred them safe.

Many member states, even after announcement deemed substances as banned in cosmetics and argued on several points.

Now, as notified to WTO on 29 June 2017 and reported by Chemical Watch on 3 July 2017, it is stated that the changes would be made through a Commission Regulation.

In Cosmetics, a number of Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic (CMR) substances are being banned or restricted by the European Commission.

The changes would be made through Commission Regulation to 9 substances and Annexes would be amended.

Annex II

Six CMRs to the list of banned substances in Annex II are:

Quaternium-15

It is marked as Preservative and is currently under Annex VI/31

 Chloracetamide

Chloroacetamide is a preservative and  used in hair, bath, body and hand cleansing and personal products.

Dichloromethane

Dichloromethane, also called Methylene chlorideis a volatile chemical produced and imported into the United States, with use estimated at over 260 million pounds per year. It is mostly used in adhesive, pharmaceutical, paint and coating industry.

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is mainly used in Nail hardening products. It is considered Carcinogenic Type 2 and is currently placed under Annex III/13.

Perboric Acid & Sodium Perborates

Sodium Perborate is mainly used in oral care and for oxidising. It is considred Carcinogenic CMR 1B and is currently under Annex III/1a and III/12.

Borates, Tetraborates & Octaborates 

Boric acid, Borates & tetraborates are currently under Annex III/1a except substance 1184 in Annex II. It is considred as CMR 1B.

Annex III

Three CMR substances escaped the ban as SCCS (Sceientic Commitee for Consumer Safety) considered them safe under certain conditions.

TPO [Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide]

It is a skin conditioning agent and a organic compound. Maximum Concentration to be restricted to 5% only for Professional use in artificial nail systems

Furfural

Furfural is a Organic compound and used as solvent. Maximum concentration to be restricted to 0.001%

PHMB [Polyaminopropyl biguanide]

PHMB is used as a preservative. The maximum concentration to be restricted to 0.1%, except in sprayable formulations.

The amendments of Regulation will enter into force after 20 days when published in the Official Journal.

Cosmetic Chemist!!! A cosmetic chemist is an individual who specializes in a Degree with majors in Cosmetic Science with subjects like Cosmetic Research, Cosmetic Technology, Cosmetic Formulation Development, Herbal Cosmetics, Skincare, Hair care, Color Cosmetics, Perfumery,  Immunology & Toxicology, Product Development, Cosmetic Engineering, Cosmetic Regulatory, Cosmetic raw materials and their processing, Cosmetic Quality Assurance Techniques and so on…

If you see all the major cosmetic producing companies in the market including P&G, L’Oreal Inc, Avon Inc, Coty Inc, Avon Inc, Johnson & Johnson group of companies and many more…the people who are working on the bench to develop cosmetics products are not Cosmetics Chemists, rather most of them are Chemical engineers, chemistry graduates or some other degree individuals. If a accounts job is given to Accounting professional only, a Finance job to finance guy only, medical job to a doctor only, then why not Cosmetics technical job to a cosmetic chemist only??

This incident happened with this guy few days back, he is Masters and Bachelors degree in Cosmetic Science with hard earned experience of few years within Cosmetic field. He has been constantly checking many jobs for his career advancement in his specialized cosmetic field in other countries. These jobs have been displayed for more than 2 months, sometimes even 3 to 4 months, this guy is absolutely suitable to the job, the recruiter between is saying that you qualify for the job, but the Immigration Visa issues and country borders are so huge that finally he is rejected on the basis that his immigration visa for work would be too complicated or maybe next to impossible to do by any employer.

If you see the general trend today on job searching and networking global websites like Careerbuilder, Simply Hired, Indeed , Monster, LinkedIn and few others too, they have plenty of jobs open for cosmetic chemists or cosmetic formulators or cosmetics new product development for couple of months already or time period even more, but they don’t have right people to fill them. Finally, the outcome is, they hire Chemical engineers, pharmaceutics guys, chemistry based or other individuals with experience within cosmetic field. These are those individuals who understand the basic of Cosmetics but they are not the individuals who have put 4-8 years of their life just studying Cosmetic Science to get one good job within cosmetic field. Most of these individuals employed today on cosmetic chemist job are individuals with related science background who could get jobs in other industrial sectors too.

The pity is that the jobs are available, there is shortage of cosmetic individuals in all the countries throughout globe, but still Cosmetic Chemists cannot get these well deserved jobs due to Immigration, Visa or documents issues while getting hired in some other country.

Today FDA, COLIPA and all other Administrative and Regulatory bodies throughout the globe are in the phase of revolution. They are putting certain restrictions on chemical ingredients like Formaldehyde, Dibutyl Phthalate, Parabens, Pthalic anhydride and many others, but they are not letting Companies do quick documents for Cosmetic Chemists, who , the chemists are the real people who can replace and analyse cosmetics products better.

A Cosmetic Chemist has studied only Cosmetics till the core, of course he will be a better formulator once given a chance within Cosmetics field, but if you hire individual from a related field, he will learn first and then he’ll apply. In layman’s language, for instance, there are 2 doctors, one specializes in bones and other is general physician. Now think, if this general physician is made to do all the work of the bones specialist, he may be successful, but for that he’ll have to learn, understand and then work on the success. If in case, the bone specialist would have been called, he would have fixed the issue in half the time or maybe less as he specializes only in bones.

My point above is that Cosmetics Chemists who have studied Cosmetic Science are very limited in number all over the world. They have put years of study and experience just for Cosmetic Science. Seeing this current revolutionary phase of advancement in Cosmetic Science, all the Country Administrations and Homeland Security Offices should understand the need of Cosmetic Chemists in the Cosmetics Industry and their shortage through out the world. The Visa procedures should be relaxed for the Cosmetic Chemists and it should be made easy for companies to hire them.

I guess there is a rule of the Administrative Bodies and Homeland security offices of the countries that a company can hire foreign workers only in case you show that there are no local workers available. For this, the companies have to put certain ads on recruitment websites for 20-30 days. If nobody is selected then they can hire foreign individual, but how??? Till the time the administrative bodies won’t make the procedures simple after this time period, how will a company hire somebody from outside. For this happening, important is to curb the Immigration law of the countries seeing the need of Cosmetic Chemists in Cosmetic Industries today.

If you have ever experienced this problem of visa and immigration or something similar to this, please feel free to share it here.  Please don’t hesitate to share further with the professionals who had or are still experiencing similar issues.


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